A Bula Bula Christmas from Fiji!

My last blog entry was 6 months ago on the 4^th anniversary of buying Pelangi.

We always knew that cruising idyllic islands and following changing monsoons wasn’t something we could do forever and completing a circumnavigation is not on our bucket list.  We were always on the look out for somewhere we could use as a base.  A slice of paradise where the environment was still in tact, where we could live off the land, be part of a community; start a small business perhaps.  It needed to have somewhere to moor Pelangi so we could still enjoy cruising and escape for a while whenever we wanted.  Once we started to look seriously it became clear that we weren’t going find anything in S.E. Asia.  Visa restrictions, dodgy lease agreements and hearing of other misfortunes were enough to conclude we were looking in the wrong place. 

So, just before our visit to NZ earlier this year, we went to Fiji and visited 2 islands looking at properties and land for sale.  Fiji ticked all the boxes.  Due diligence and Commonwealth laws would ensure the safe buying of freehold land.  Building materials and standards are high, the locals are a friendly bunch and the cruising ground is stunning!

Those of you connected via facebook know that as a result of our visit we purchased a lovely 2 unit,
ocean view property in Savusavu on the Fiji’s 2^nd largest island Vanau Levu.  The area is a mix of local villages and nice resorts (owned by the likes of Tony Robbins and Jean Michel Cousteau).  It’s famed for its lush green scenery, waterfalls, superb diving, big game fishing and adventure holidays including trekking, mountain biking and kayaking.

Drawing up the sales and purchase agreement was the easy bit, what followed was over 4 months of frustration as we dealt with bank managers and lawyers who would test the patience of a saint!  Some hold ups were a result of the famed “Fiji Time” (which can be charming when you’re future doesn’t depend on it!!), but mainly due to miscommunication or mismanagement.  By this time we were back living on Pelangi in Puteri Harbour Marina, Malaysia; just across the causeway from Singapore.  It was a great place to be as we had good internet access 24/7, access to printers, scanners, banks and good overseas phone connections which did help to push things along and smooth the way a little.  If we’d been cruising or in a less developed area we don’t think we could have done it.  Pelangi became our floating office.  The sails were put away and shore power was plugged in permanently as we set about overseeing the next chapter in our lives. 

The sale was completed mid October and early November I flew out to take ownership leaving Gareth on the boat to finish some work commitments before joining me for Christmas.  My first month alone here was not without its moments.  My luggage got delayed by 2 days, I arrived on a Friday afternoon so was without power or water for the week end and on my first night I thought I was being attacked by some crazy bush man waving a machete at me from my garden gate.  It turned out to be James, one of the elders from the village and caretaker of surrounding ex pat properties!  He went bare foot all the way back to is village in the pitch black and pouring rain to get me a battery lamp so I could have light in the house – bless him! 

Our belongings and treasures came out of a storage facility in Singapore after 4 ½ years and arrived 2 weeks ago.  This was not without it’s dramas either and worthy of a whole chapter just on it’s own, but when everything was unpacked it was remarkable what good condition everything is in.  Initially, it felt very strange to have TV’s, desk top computers, large oven, huge fridge/freezer, food processor, large shower with continuous hot water etc  after 4 years of minimalism and conservation on the boat.  Whilst it’s enjoyable, we don’t want to loose sight of the simplicity of life and appreciation of our surroundings.  In our garden we have papayas, avocado, aubergine, chillies and pumpkin along with sweet smelling trees and flowers such as frangipani, honeysuckle and night jasmine.  The arrival of our bikes means we can enjoy the winding roads at the base of the green hills, past tethered horses, small bays and even a lagoon that we can we can cool down in.

We feel very lucky and very blessed to be here.  We have lots of ideas for remodeling the house to our style and taste and plan to do some alterations to the 2^nd house and turn it into a self contained holiday villa.  We hope to sail Pangers here eventually, but that will be a big and tricky passage and one that will take time and careful planning.  She’s safe where she is and will continue to be our base in Asia for now.  She is still loved very much!!

With everything that’s happened we’ve lost track of time and almost forgot that tomorrow is Christmas Day!  We hope that you all have a safe and happy holidays and get to spend time with your loved ones during the festive season.

Massive hugs and love to my loved ones Bev and Laura.  I couldn’t have got through all of this without you – you and skypee are the best!!

Bula vinaka and all the best for 2015

Cheers then

Captns G and J XXX

4 years

Four years ago today we signed a piece a paper that would change our lives forever. 

We’d completed (and passed) our IYT skippers course, we’d been out on a sea trial on a lovely 37ft foot yacht called Pelangi, and today, 4 years ago we signed the sales agreement that would make her our own.  A lot of water has passed under the bridge (and under her hull) since that day.  Some of it calm, beautiful, clear water, and some of it stormy and unpredictable, but we’ve come away from these experiences richer in knowledge and friendships, and with a better understanding of nature and all she throws at us.  Our little boat has been our home and our adventure capsule; she’s taken us to places that some can only dream about and dealt admirably with squalls and rough seas.  She has welcomed many friends who’ve come aboard sometimes just for a sundowner, others for an adventure holiday, we had a pretend pirate outing with The Shenton Family, and even an Indie Disco when Laura was on board!   And let’s not forget the stowaway who swam to our boat for safety once night while trying to swim to shore from a fishing boat in stormy weather!! 

Pelangi has given us so much more than we can ever give back to her, but she hasn’t done too badly out of it!  To date Pelangi has had a new main sail, all new electronic equipment including new auto pilot, new windlass, she’s been re wired and has a new switch panel, bilge pumps, alarm system, all new LED lighting including cockpit light (so I can actually see what I’m eating at night!), a new set of batteries, 4 solar panels, made to measure radar arch, spray dodger and frame, new canvass work and cushions and not forgetting the cuddly toy (for those who remember The Generation Game!).  Even Dolly Dinghy has got in on the act with a new outboard motor and new chaps (cover).  We’ve also experienced 2 haul outs where she has had her bottom scraped and anti fouled, a stern paint job, gel coat repair work and professional polish, plus a galley facelift!

You’d think with all that work we wouldn’t have had much time to sail, but those who have followed our story know we have ventured on many passages across the Gulf of Thailand, Malacca Strait, Balabac Strait, Sulu Sea and South China Sea.  Sailing at night in quiet waters and under a full moon is a very gratifying experience and when dolphins appeared on the bow at first light on one occasion even I was left speechless!.

We have sailed more than 8,660 nautical miles and visited or anchored off more than 243 islands.  The amount of pollution and rubbish in our waters, the attitude of those who continue to rape the seas of all she has, and the rainforest that has been destroyed in the name of commercial gain has saddened us. But mostly we’ve felt truly blessed by the beauty of what we have seen and overwhelmed at times by the kindness of fellow sailors and the welcome from total strangers who have so little compared to us, but seem so happy with their small lot in life – we have much to be grateful for!

Since our last haul out in Penang in December we have spent our time cruising the west coast of Malaysia and Thailand.  It took us 3 attempts to leave Penang before reaching Langkawi due to rough seas and strong head winds, but once we got going there was not stopping us.  We had 15 – 20 knots of wind on the beam most of the way and did some of our best sailing ever on our passage from Langkawi, Malaysia to Krabi, Thailand where we picked up Gareth’s mum, Bev, for her second trip with us.  It wasn’t without it moments, mainly involving getting rather wet on our trips back from shore when Dolly proved just a little too small for the chop and surf that had built unbeknownst to us while enjoying dinner on the shore or duty free shopping – the whisky came in handy quite a few times!!  But Bev took all of the challenges in her stride and proved to be very worthy crew!  She was rewarded for her efforts by days of lovely cruising in light breezes and some stunning anchorages surrounded by mountains towering either side of the boat sometimes with only the moon and stars for company.  Bev abandoned ship for the luxury of hot running water and a comfy bed at a nice beach resort in Langkawi and even got to fly over Pelangi in a microlite  before heading back to NZ.  We then headed back south and left Pelangi in a marina in Johor Bahru, Malaysia (just across the way from Singapore) while we flew to Bali to catch up with our dear friends Nat and Ralph off their lovely yellow boat, Soltutu, and then onto Labuan Bajo, Flores, Indonesia for some diving and snorkeling.  It was superb!  Gareth dived deep and saw all the “big stuff” and I snorkeled and made friends with four turtles on my final swim.  We also encountered Komodo dragons, but decided not to make friends with them as human flesh is a speciality on their menu!!

A few weeks after our return we left Pelangi and Dolly once more and flew to Sydney where we spent some long overdue time with Gareth’s wonderfully entertaining Uncle Robert, better known as Doctor Bob.  His apartment on Coogee beach, just down from Bondi is a fantastic place for headland walks, people watching, café brunches, wood fired pizza and cheap and delicious red wine, which we took full advantage of!  It was also great to catch up with good friends and fellow sailors Fred and Kat and their new crewmember; 6 month old Louisa.  From there we flew to NZ and really enjoyed quality family time with brother, sisters, nephews and nieces who seem to have eaten rather a lot of Jack’s Beans as they have all grown so much!!  We also caught up with old friends and enjoyed cheap and delicious NZ white and red wines, macro brewed beer, pies and fish and chips.  I think Pelangi’s water line was reduced when we got back on her!!

And so today sees Pelangi moored in a marina just like she was the first day we saw her only a bit more “lived in” and with more than a few tales to tell if she could talk!  And we are all the richer for our friendships and (possibly) a little wiser for our experiences.  We know that the next 4 years will bring new challenges and are planning an extensive passage through Indonesia and beyond.

I have just finished a novel and one of the lines reads “I am limited only by what I can dream and allow myself to risk”.  Dream big!!

Cheers then

Captns J and G XXX